Does Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator have the exfoliating power of a daily 20% glycolic acid treatment? If it’s true, it’s the answer to all our skincare prayers. 20% Glycolic acid exfoliates skin, reduces sun damage, and fades away dark spots and hyperpigmentation. But that high % is so harsh, it’ll strip your skin raw and irritate it like hell. Ouch! If there’s something that gives you the same benefits without any of the side effects, I’m so here for it. Does this deliver? I’ve put it to the test to find out:
- Key Ingredients In Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator: What Makes It Work?
- The Rest Of The Formula & Ingredients
- Texture
- Fragrance
- How To Use It
- Packaging
- Performance & Personal Opinion
- How Does Is Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator Compare To Other Skinceuticals Exfoliants?
- What I Like About Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator
- What I DON’T Like About Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator
- Who Should Use This?
- Does Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator Live Up To Its Claims?
- Price & Availability
- The Verdict: Should You Buy It?
- Dupes & Alternatives
Key Ingredients In Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator: What Makes It Work?
HYDROXYETHYL UREA TO EXFOLIATE AND HYDRATE SKIN?
Hydroxyethyl Urea is the star of the show. It’s the little molecule that’s supposed to exfoliate your skin as well as 20% daily glycolic acid peels. Skinceuticals also claims it’s as hydrating as glycerin. But what does science says?
Urea works in the same way as Glycolic Acid. Like it, it softens and dissolves the keratin that holds skin cells together, so they can slough off on their own. So, urea can exfoliate skin well. But I couldn’t find any proof (yet!) that Hydroxyethyl Urea has the same benefits as plain old urea, let alone 20% daily glycolic acid peels.
That doesn’t mean it doesn’t. Maybe it does, but no one has bothered to do a study on it. But for now, we have to take Skinceuticals’ word for it. That’s not good enough for me. Personally, knowing how well plain urea exfoliates skin, I’m willing to give Hydroxyethyl Urea the benefit of the doubt. If your skin is so sensitive, it can’t tolerate Glycolic Acid, this may be worth a try.
But what about its hydrating properties? This time, science agrees with Skinceuticals. Research shows hydroxyethyl urea delivers “moisturization efficacy comparable to glycerin, while offering some advantages in terms of sensory perception in skin care products.” So, it works just as well as glycerin and feels more pleasant on the skin. Me likes that.
Related: Everything You Need To Know About Urea In Skincare
Want to get the most out of your skincare products? Click on the image below to subscribe to my newsletter and receive the “How To Combine Actives Like A Pro” cheatsheet.
HYALURONIC ACID TO HYDRATE SKIN
Hydroxyethyl Urea and Glycerin aren’t the only hydrating ingredients here. Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator also has Hyaluronic Acid. It’s a moisture magnet that draws water from the environment and binds it into your skin. It’s so powerful, it can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water! Extra moisture = plumper, softer and brighter skin.
Related: Why You Need Hyaluronic Acid In Your Routine, No Matter Your Skin Type
The Rest Of The Formula & Ingredients
NOTE: The colours indicate the effectiveness of an ingredient. It is ILLEGAL to put toxic and harmful ingredients in skincare products.
- Green: It’s effective, proven to work, and helps the product do the best possible job for your skin.
- Yellow: There’s not much proof it works (at least, yet).
- Red: What is this doing here?!
- Aqua / water / eau: The main solvent in the product, it helps to dissolve other ingredients.
- Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid: It’s used to adjust the pH in water-based formulas.
- Pentylene glycol: It attracts moisture into your skin to increase its hydration levels and helps active ingredients better penetrate skin.
- Saccharomyces/xylinum/ black tea ferment: Derived from the fermentation of black tea by the microorganism, saccharomyces and xylinium, it makes skin softer and smoother.
- Glycerin: A popular humectant. That’s a fancy way of calling ingredients that draw moisture from the air into your skin, increasing its moisture levels and keeping it softer and plumper for longer.
- Methylparaben: A preservative that inhibits the growth of bacteria and fungi in your skincare products, helping them last longer.
- Phenoxyethanol: Another preservative that prevents bacteria from growing into your skincare products, so they’re safer for longer.
Texture
This exfoliant has a light and fast-absorbing texture that doesn’t leave a greasy residue behind.
Fragrance
It’s fragrance-free. I like it. It may not smell like a meadow in full bloom, but fragrance is the most irritating ingredient in skincare. Any brand who loves skin will leave it out. Just saying…
How To Use It
Skinceuticals tells you to use it twice a daily, but you’re not supposed to exfoliate that much! Exfoliating too often will irritate your skin. Instead, use it 2 or 3 nights a week after cleansing. Avoid using it on nights you use retinoids.
Packaging
This exfoliant comes in a see-through bottle with a dropper applicator that makes it easy to apply and use.
Performance & Personal Opinion
Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator isn’t lying about its hydrating properties. Just three or four drops are enough to cover my entire face and make it plumper and softer. Now that the weather is getting colder, I feel like this extra hydration is helping my moisturizer keep my skin hydrated all day and prevent dry and flaky patches (although, I’m sure this could help them heal, too).
After a couple of weeks, I’ve also noticed that my skin looks a bit smoother and is definitely a bit brighter. Basically, it just makes my skin look healthy. Does it work as well as glycolic acid? It’s hard to say, even after a month of use. It does a great job, but I have to say, I’m sticking to glycolic acid simply because there’s way more evidence it works.
Related: How Often Should You Use Glycolic Acid?
How Does Is Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator Compare To Other Skinceuticals Exfoliants?
Skinceuticals has a gazillion exfoliants. Half of them are exfoliating cleansers and I’m not a fan of those. They don’t exfoliate skin as well as something that stays on its surface for several hours. So, I’ll leave them out. Instead, lets compare how Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator compares to the other leave-on exfoliants from the brand to find out which one is best for your skin type and needs:
- Skinceuticals LHA Toner ($40.00): A glycolic acid toner with a little Salicylic acid and LHA (Caproloyl salicylic acid) thrown in to brighten the complexion, reduce skin roughness, and prevent acne. It’s best for aging skin prone to breakouts. Available at Dermstore, Skinceuticals, and Skin Store
- Skinceuticals Blemish + Age Defense ($106.00): A serum that treats both acne and the signs of aging thanks to its blend of 0.3% LHA (Caprolyol Salicylic Acid), 1.5% Salicylic Acid, 3.5% Glycolic Acid and 0.5% Citric Acid. It’s best for oily and aging skin. Available at Dermstore, Skinceuticals, and Skin Store
- Skinceuticals C + AHA ($145.00): A daytime antioxidant serum with exfoliating properties. It has 15% L-Ascorbic Acid (the pure form of Vitamin C) to fight wrinkles and a 10% blend of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) to exfoliate. It’s most suitable for people with dry skin who want to simplify their routine. Available at Blue Mercury, Dermstore, Look Fantastic, Skinceuticals, and Skin Store
- Skinceuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight ($90.00): A Glycolic acid exfoliant in cream form that removes dead cells, hydrates skin, smooths out wrinkles, and helps to fade away dark spots. Most suitable for dry and sun-damaged skin. Available at Blue Mercury, Dermstore, Look Fantastic, Skinceuticals, and Skin Store
- Skinceuticals Cell Cycle Catalyst ($115.00): An exfoliant with a 7.7% multi-acid complex: 2% Phytic Acid, 1% Mandelic Acid, 0.2% Salicylic Acid, 2% Lactic Acid, and 2.5% Glycolic Acid. It brightens the complexion and smoothes out wrinkles but there’s not enough salicylic acid here to fight acne. Best for people with dry skin and hyperpigmentation. Available at Skinceuticals
What I Like About Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator
- Lightweight, fast-absorbing texture.
- Fragrance-free.
- Makes skin softer and smoother.
- Brightens the complexion.
- A little hydrating.
- Non-irritating.
What I DON’T Like About Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator
- There’s no proof it works as well as 20% Glycolic Acid yet.
Who Should Use This?
Sensitive skin that can’t tolerate glycolic acid. Everyone else, you’re still better off with Glycolic Acid.
Does Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator Live Up To Its Claims?
| CLAIM | TRUE? |
|---|---|
| This oil-free serum simultaneously exfoliates skin and replenishes moisture for radiant, smooth, skin. | True. |
| This oil-free serum has the resurfacing power of daily 20% glycolic acid treatment. | There is NO scientific proof this is true. |
| Diminishes the appearance of surface lines and smoothes skin. | True. |
| Increases the look of overall radiance. | True. |
| Balances moisture levels. | Yes, it hydrates skin. |
Price & Availability
$90.00 at Blue Mercury, Dermstore, Skinceuticals, and Skin Store
The Verdict: Should You Buy It?
If your skin’s so sensitive it can’t tolerate glycolic or you’re simply curious to try an alternative, you may want to give this one a go. But for most people, exfoliating acids are still the better option.
Dupes & Alternatives
- Cetaphil Daily Hydrating Lotion ($20.99): An oil-free lotion with deeply hydrates and smoothes out skin. It has the same active ingredients, but costs a lot less. Available at Boots, Look Fantastic, Sephora, Superdrug, and Ulta
- Hada Labo Skin Plumping Gel Cream ($20.99): A plumping moisturiser that makes wrinkles look smaller and deeply hydrates. Available at Superdrug and Target.
Ingredients
aqua / water / eau, hydroxyethyl urea, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, pentylene glycol, saccharomyces/xylinum/ black tea ferment, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, methylparaben, phenoxyethanol
Hi Gio, thank you for your very informative post. I’m new to skincare and not really sure of what I’m doing, I’m of african descent and have oily skin. I have blemishes all over my face, my skin texture isn’t smooth either and I have pigmentation around my mouth, on my cheeks and forehead. I want to ask if I can try the skinceuticals retexturing activator or Image skincare hydrating ACE serum, heard a lot about these two. Also am I doing the right thing with my rotuine ?
AM
Cetaphil oily cleanser (sometimes I rinse my face with just lukewarm water)
Garnier Natural Aloe Extract Toner Normal Skin
No 7 Early Defence Glow Activating Serum
Ordinary Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F
No 7 Early Defence Day cream
Clinique Mineral Suncreen Fluid for Face SPF 50
PM
Cetaphil oily cleanser
Glycolyic acid 7% Toning Solution ( not on the same night as Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane)
No 7 Early Defence Glow Activating Serum
Ordinary Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F
Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane
No 7 Early Defence Night cream
I use the Ordinary Salicylic acid over my face at night/day when I have pimples but this makes me extremely oily
I use the Ordinary AHA 20% + BHA 2% Peeling solution once a week but this does nothing for my skin. I feel like my skin is badly damaged and I need remedy.
Open to your suggestions and thanks so much in advance!
Oyeyinka, does your skin needs more hydration? If so, Skinceuticals Retexturizing Activator is a good option. But I’d definitely change the vitamin C serum. Ordinary Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F is a good product but it’s for dry skin. Yours is oily. No 7 Early Defence Glow Activating Serum has vitamin C too but not too much. So I’d get rid of these two and substitute them with another vitamin C serum that’s more suitable for oily skin. You can definitely try the Image skincare one.
Hi I use retexturising activator in the morning after c e feurulic. Then B5 , then moisturise. I have Paula’s choice resist daily pore refining treatment 2% BHA and don’t know where to fit into my routine. I used to use it after c e feurlic.
I have combination skin. Thanks Gio!
Sarah, use it straight after cleansing two or three times a week.
So it’s safe to use the PC product and retexturising activator together? I was worried it’d be too much. Thank you x
Sarah, it shouldn’t be too much for most skin types. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule, so if you feel your skin is getting drier, stop using the retexturing activator.
Hi! Im new to glycolic acid and on a tight budget. With that in mind, what product can u recommend? I have sensitive skin
Jen
Jen, if you have sensitive skin, I don’t recommend glycolic acid at all. For your skin type, lactic acid is a much better option. Both The Ordinary and The Inkey List make good lactic acid exfoliants that don’t break the bank.
Since “theoretically” one should wait between an AHA and a Retinol, i wonder if this could be an alternative to an acid in order to apply a retinol product without having to wait at all . Any thoughts? 🙂 Cri
Cristina, for dry skin yes, it could be a good alternative for women who don’t want to wait.
HI Gio!
Have been trying to incorporate a weekly exfoliant into my routine as I tend to get clogged pores around my nose, and just want a nice clean a week, or once every two weeks. problem is I have sensitive, reactive skin too… Tried glycolic, can’t do it, did a peel at a derms office and a side of my face peeled, and pigmented into a dark brown as I have middle eastern (olive) skin. It took a year for it to disappear. I can’t use lactic acid either as I get irritated and get little tiny whiteheads, tried Barbara sturms enzyme cleanser, it was fine in the T zone, but irritated my cheeks. Now I am looking into this product, would you recommend for sensitive skin? and if so, what frequency do you recommend? Any advice would be great.
Najla, if your skin is this sensitive, simply cleanse with a washcloth a couple of times a week. I’ll perform a gentle exfoliating action without irritating your skin.
Hi Gio! I use CE Ferulic in the morning and I just bought the Retexturing Activator, I also use a Lactic Acid PH Toner which I love. I just don’t know how to fit these in my routine so I get the best effect. I’m afraid if I use them wrong or all together I might be not getting the best of some ingredients.
Thank you,
Valerie
Valerie, you don’t get results by using the best ingredients. You get results by using what your skin needs. If you need my help with creating your skincare routine, please book your consultation here: https://www.beautifulwithbrains.com/skincare-consultation/